Technical Q&A
The Mustang SVO Owners Association Inc is providing these tech questions as a service to all Mustang SVO owners and enthusiasts. This group is not responsible, and will not accept the responsibility for the accuracy of the information that appears below. You should follow up the information with your very own tech advisor or automotive technician to ascertain that the information is complete.
Input into these questions was provided by this group's tech advisors and interested individuals who wanted to help out. Should you have any questions on technical tips please forward them to this group and they will be included. Thank you.
Relay Switch:
Q: I am the current owner of a 1986 SVO that I resurrected from a salvage yard 2 years ago. One problem I have is that the radiator-mounted cooling fan does not work anymore. The previous owner wired a toggle switch to it to operate it manually. Can anyone tell me what temperature sensor operates the fan and/or where the relay and sensor may be mounted?M. Flemings' response:
As you know, the fan is controlled by the relay controller under the dash, which you indicated was replaced. It is also quite common for the wiring or the plastic moulding that holds the connectors to that controller to get damaged or melted, and Ford does have a replacement wiring repair kit (connector kit) with a replacement plastic connector moulding and new connectors that can be crimped into place. The newer controllers also have wider contact areas, to work with the replacement wiring repair kit. Ford also makes a replacement connector, vented like the '87/'88 TC's used, for the wiring that connects to the cooling fan motor itself. Good idea to replace that connector also.
And as always, check the fuses leading to the controller. With a good controller plugged into the harness and the fan motor connected, key in on position, engine off, manually switch (with a finger) each relay. One will make the fan come on. That will verify the wiring, etc.
Rich Osburn and Bob King's response:
The Electric Fan Relay is located underneath the dashboard on the driver's side, near the steering column. In 1984 SVOs, the box had an end flap that said TRW on it... but I'm not sure about the 1985/1986 cars. The box is about 2"x2" and is clearly visible when you look up from under the driver's footwell area. The temperature control switch is mounted on the intake manifold, almost dead center on the bottom. The controllers are known to have problems with the connectors deforming due to heat generated by current in the wiring. If this car lived in AZ most of its life, I would start there. I have Wiring diagrams and component pictures; if you would like them, let me know.
Seeing that the fan runs when you ground out the temperature switch is a good sign. One other thing I would like to suggest is that the engine temperature gauge is not working correctly. Especially if the cooling fan temperature switch is closing at 226 deg F. You might also make sure the radiator is getting good coolant flow and that the thermostat is working properly.
Part Numbers: Pistons/Rods
Q: I bought a 1985-1/2 SVO. I am in the middle of rebuilding the engine that has 180,000 miles on it. The other day we got the motor apart, and you can tell it has been apart before. My question is about the part numbers on the pistons and rods. They start with D3EZ, which I thought was '73, not '85. Are these the correct pistons and rods? Also, what is the difference, if any, between a regular 2300 block and a 2.3 turbo block?
Response by M. Fleming:
A: The rods used in all Brazilian-made Ford 2.3L OHC engines are the same and are from the original design in 1973 (first production year was 1974). Rods use Ford service part number D7FZ-6200-A, according to my 1984 Parts Manual. The number stamped on the actual part is an engineering number and will be different from the service replacement part number (used to order replacement parts from your local or distant Ford dealer).
There were several pistons available for the 2.3L series of engines with the main categories being normally aspirated 9:1 compression ratio, the 79-80 carbureted turbo engine forged piston also of 9:1 c/r, and lastly the EFI turbocharged piston which is a dished (not flat-top!) forged piston providing a c/r of 8:1. This is recognized by the "D-shaped" dish in the piston, approximately matching the rotation (of the "D") with the cylinder heads combustion chamber "D" shape). The outer edges of the piston, on the top, are completely flat. There is also an arrow pointing forwards, to be installed facing the front (water pump end) of the block. This is the best piston to use in the EFI turbo engine and is quite strong.
Close examination of the underside [of the EFI turbo piston] will reveal no sand pitting (as long as the part hasn't been sand-blasted for cleaning!) as would be seen in a typical cast piston. All non-machined surfaces are quite smooth and without casting flash. The piston pin is quite thick-walled and heavy (piston with pin is ~619 grams).
The service part number for the N/A piston is E3TZ-6108-? (size spec) whereas the forged EFI turbo piston is E3ZZ-6108-? (size, again). The EFI turbo pistons are no longer serviced by Ford as they became obsolete several years ago. I've heard that TRW makes an equivalent forged replacement but it's not listed in their "normal" catalog. Nick Maranello at Modern Performance, Inc. in New Jersey (www.modernperformanceinc.com) can provide info on the TRW pistons as he uses them frequently in his engines.
The only difference between the normally aspirated block and the turbo block is the addition of the oil return fitting boss on the right side to allow for return of the turbo's lubricant/cooling oil back to the sump. It's about centered between cylinders 2 & 3 and just above the sump gasket line. I seem to remember that there is also an internal baffle, but it's been some time since I had a block apart.
I expect it would be very difficult to modify a normally aspirated block to add the oil-return hole, as the block material isn't generous in that area. It would probably be easier to add the oil return to the top rear of the sump (oil pan), fabricate new oil drain line from the CHRA using AN-12 or larger fittings and then deal with the windage issues inside the sump with baffling. It would be a good idea to reinforce the sump material where the return fitting attaches to handle the extreme vibration of an over-square 4-cylinder engine. This is not a job for the timid.
Q: OK, I am finished with the front brakes (hoses, rotors, bearings, seals, pads, etc). Does anyone have tips on doing the rear pads? The rear is quite different than the front brakes.
Gary Sinde
Response by M. Fleming:
A: Again - the very first step is to flush the whole brake system with clean, fresh fluid. I like to use Castrol GT/LMA - personal choice - although any DOT3 or DOT4 fluid is acceptable. My advice on the rears is to take it to a competent brake shop (please note the word "competent" generally does not include places like Brake Monsters, Pep Boys, Midas, etc.) and pay someone that's experienced with this caliper to do it. As old as the cars are now, expect to have the calipers rebuilt. Special tools and some previous experience are highly recommended.
The calipers aren't serviced by FoMoCo any more and are in extremely short supply as rebuilt units, and quite expensive. Best to not learn "what not to do" on this area of the car. Fortunately, seal kits and some internal parts are still available - although pricey. Like the parking brake adjuster assemblies. Replace the three hoses also (one short one at each caliper, longer middle one from the differential housing to the chassis near center). If you decide to do it yourself, look into buying a "previously owned" set of rear calipers and rebuild those on the bench, install them into your car, fit new hoses, bleed, etc. The "previously owned" ones will be over 15 years old too, so work will still be needed. Then sell the ones you removed.
Q: I know a guy who has a 1984 SVO with shot ball joints. He can't find a replacement part number. I thought the Lincoln Mark VII used the same ball joints. True? If not, what can he use?
Robert Lyons
Response by M. Fleming:
A: Well, your information is partly correct!
The front A-Arms on the SVO did come from the Mark VII parts bin, with the left and right coming from different years (I have no idea why...). Unfortunately, the "ball joint" on the forged steel front A-Arms is part of the arm. The outer race of the ball joint is an integral part of the arm and the ball is retained into the arm/race by rolling over a portion of the arm itself. Unlike the stamped-steel (thick sheet metal) arms, the arms on the Mark VII/SVO do not use riveted ball joints, and thus cannot be replaced.
Your best bet is to locate a set of "previously owned" a-arms and get some new boots. A little sandblasting and paint will make them function like new. Try e-Bay or the suppliers list on www.mustangsvo.org for sources of previously owned SVO parts. At one time FoMoCo was providing these arms, but they weren't in pairs and had sporadic availability. I do not know if they are still orderable from your local Ford dealer; perhaps a phone call will provide more data. Please note that "orderable" does not necessarily mean "available."
There was a project to make replacement tubular arms by an aftermarket suspension manufacturer, but I never heard of any parts being made. I suspect the extremely limited market versus high tooling costs killed the project.
Other than the above, it is possible to get one of the aftermarket tubular "K" frames with a-arms and fit those but it is a major project to remove the engine/gearbox, complete front suspension, brakes, etc. just to fit the K frame.
Q: I happen to have a question about my 1984 SVO. I managed to get the thing pretty cheap, since the rear was 90% blown, there was light cosmetic damage to the front of the car as well as having Capri fenders. I knew there was cosmetic front-end damage, but only after I took the front bumper cover off did I discover the headlight-mounting panel was cracked and beyond hope, and every light on the front of the car was broken at the mounting points. I've managed to find a place making reproduction fiberglass headlight panels, but before I drop about 400 bucks on this thing, I need to know where I can find lights for this car. I just want to know, is there ANYONE out there who is making ANY SVO reproduction headlights?
Owen Albert
Response by B. Fairchok:
A: No reproductions are available. Decent used sets will probably cost $300-$600 when you find them.
Q: My 1986 SVO has been in storage for 10 years; I want to get it back on the road. What do I need to do?
Steve Vacilotto
Response by M. Fleming and D. Malek:
A: You should do the following (not necessarily in this order):
DB.Response by D. LaRocque:
A: Try some bug remover first, and make sure the lights are actually pitted. If you have small cracks or holes, you can use a windshield repair kit, such as Permatex Bullseye. I would not recommend grinding the lens, as you would likely throw off the focus. Note: This question was included in a "Wheels" section of a local paper.
Q: I have a surging problem with my SVO. How do I deal with this problem? What's the cause?
Tim Booth
Response by B. Hutchinson:
A: I bought a 1985-1/2 SVO in April and my experience with computer-controlled turbo waste-gate engines started there. I am a retired product design engineer and engineering supervisor with 34 years experience at Ford in Dearborn.
The first occurrence of this problem was a complaint of mid-rpm surging at WOT, made by my 34-year-old son, a mechanical engineer for Allied Signal. He drove my SVO for a week last June. The next occurrence of the problem was in August when WOT acceleration at freeway speeds produced a rapid surge (maybe 30 times per second) similar to trailer hitch jerking. Vehicle acceleration under this condition was nearly non-existent. By backing off the throttle a small amount, the surge disappeared and acceleration improved to just less than what I expected at WOT (nearly normal).
I tried different premium gasolines with no success and finally added a bottle of 104+ Black octane improver (Mike Fleming's recommendation). The weather turned much cooler at the same time I added the 104+, clouding the issue. The surge problem has improved considerably by the 104+ and cooler temperatures with nearly normal WOT acceleration. However, I now notice a slow (three times a second) cycling of the turbo boost pressure from about 12 to 15 psi. All of the above situations were with the fuel switch in the premium position. There has been very little, if any, problem in the regular fuel position.
I now believe that I have had an ongoing problem with turbo surging at a low frequency that for a short time was compounded by a fuel octane deficiency. The knock sensor may have been causing a retard in spark and possibly mandating a reduction in boost, combining with a tuning problem in the waste-gate pressure control system. I am not certain, but suspect the low frequency boost pressure fluctuation was there from the time I purchased my SVO.
I noticed a warning decal on a friend's early 1985 SVO. It stated that the length of the waste-gate pressure signal hose was critical to the waste-gate control system. My hose is not original equipment and, after 50,000 miles, my waste-gate and pressure sensor may have lost some spring force. These items may have resulted in a pressure wave propagation in the boost control system (like water hammering in house plumbing, but much slower). I hope to temporarily remove the computer control of the waste-gate by using a manual control and see if the surging disappears completely.
I discussed the surging with a few SVO owners at Elkhart Lake a week ago and heard several suggestions. One that made some sense was to replace the distributor cap and plug wires. I will do this as soon as I complete some assignments from my spouse. I did change my spark plugs in the summer and am thinking of changing to a different brand of plug if the problem persists.
Part 2 of the response:
The cold weather seems to have taken care of my octane problem and I can now run without 104+ in the tank. I will have to wait until next summer to see if the problem comes back. However, the surge in power is still there and the boost gauge is still bouncing from 15 to 12 psi. (At least until yesterday!) I installed a waste-gate control elbow borrowed from Brian Chomicz, and the surge is gone! I measured the inside diameters of both elbows and found that one leg is larger than the other. The hoses on my car had been reversed, until I changed the elbows. The inside diameter of the leg going to the waste-gate is much larger than that going to the computer-controlled valve or that going into the turbo housing. This difference would slow the signal to the computer. When reversed, the signal to the waste-gate was slowed, causing it to be out of step with what the engine wanted. Why didn't I notice this earlier? Guess I assumed the routing was correct or of no great importance until I knew of the difference in diameters. Shame on me! Thanks again for the advice. There is no doubt the octane control system was making the surge problem much worse.
REPLACEMENT SVO BRAKE LINES I
Response by B. Chomicz
I just wanted to make you all aware of another company out there that can supply some quality brake hard lines for the SVO....
As some of you may remember, I am totally gutting my '86. It is currently in the process of going back together. I had wanted to replace all of my brake lines with stainless for durability and appearance.
I found a company fairly close to me (Fraser, Michigan) that does some good-quality work. The name of the company is In-Line Tube (http://www.inlinetube. com/). Their web site is done well and has a lot of useful information in it.
However, I did not see any specific mention of SVO hard lines. Since the company is close to my house I took all of my SVO hard lines up there and asked if they could make a set using these as templates. The answer was "no problem." I just had to decide if I wanted stainless or not. That decision was a no-brainer. About a week later I went to pick up my new line set. On initial inspection, I was very impressed with the quality and attention to detail. Not only did they duplicate the original lines but the spiral wrap as well. The replacement lines looked great! I got the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve, driver front line, passenger line, rear line across the bulk head, rear line that goes under the car, and both hard lines across the rear axle. I even bought some nice stainless line clamps to make the installation that much cleaner looking.
Total price for all of the hard lines.... $170 (US) stainless or $150 for regular steel.
The installation of the lines went smoothly and I only had to "tweak" one line a little bit to get a better fit. The replacement lines were bent by hand instead of a CNC bender. However, I let them keep my original lines so that they could use them as a master set to make more, or scan them into their system at their leisure. When I took my car apart I noticed one of my emergency brake cables was a little sticky from rust and road grime. Now, my car never has seen a Michigan winter so most of this must have been from rain. So while they were working on the brake lines I also had them look at making some stainless steel emergency brake cables. They had never done this specific car before and did not know if they could make replacement parts.
After some checking, In-Line Tube decided they could make a replacement if they could use the return springs and the caliper "horseshoe clip" from the original cable. I did not think this was going to be a problem, so I had them do it. These took about 2.5 weeks for them to make, and the wait was well worth it. The lines look gorgeous and everything looks right. All of the spiral wrap and rubber insulators were included and in the correct locations. Total price for the emergency brake cables... $70/each (US) stainless or $50/each for steel. I have not installed the emergency brake cables yet, but the trial fit went just fine. I hope to get these installed, along with the new fuel lines in, so that the suspension can go back in the car. I would not hesitate using this company again.
Inline Tube - 33783 Groesbeck Hwy - Fraser, MI 48026 - Order: (800) 385-9452; Tech: (810) 294-4093; Fax: (810) 294-7349
Response by A. Holmberg: If your SVO still sports the original wheel locks and socket, I suggest you consider ordering a replacement wheel lug-nut key. The original lug-nut key that was tethered to the wheel wrench by a short cable relies on the meshing of the lock to keep it centered. As the edges of the locking lug nut and key socket grooves wear (even with normal use) a positive meshing of the two pieces becomes impossible. When this happens, as you apply torque to the wheel wrench, the key will easily slip out of the grooves and often the result is an ugly scratch on the surface of the wheel and/or a skinned knuckle. The skinned knuckle will heal but damage to the wheel is permanent, unless of course you have the wheel refinished.
Best you drop down to your local Ford Parts Department and order up a replacement key. The replacement is of superior design, in that it is constructed much like a normal socket. It slips over the locking lug nut. Therefore, if the lock should disengage, the socket remains secure on the lug nut, and no harm is done. The original key has a color-code (for example - white/blue) sticker on the wrench end or your dealer should have a set of 'McGard Master' keys that can be used to determine your code. Cost of the new key lock is $15 in Canada ($18 in US ed.). If you have the correct color code you can probably order directly from McGard.
Your local Ford parts department has a McGard order form. The ordering itself was simple and it took about ten days for the piece to come in. McGard's web site is: ww.mcgard.com/automotive/.
Q. I have a problem that maybe you can help with. Here's the situation: I have a 1986 SVO with 40k on it. The motor recently started to miss under heavy load and full boost (usually in third). Thinking it was electrical, I replaced all plugs, wires and cap+rotor with MSD stuff. That didn't work, so I went to my local 5.0 speed shop and they recommended a MSD 6al box to fix the problem. I installed the box and it still does the same thing. What is the deal?
Kevin - Columbia, SC
Response by M. Fleming:
A. Well, first off, I'd like to get a better description of what "miss under heavy load and full boost (usually in third)" means. Be verbose in your description: exactly how it feels, cold, warm or hot; what the tach needle does; engine sounds, etc. Is it bucking or stumbling, or cutting out completely? Is the fuel selector in Regular or Premium when this occurs? What, exactly, happens when this switch is changed between Premium and Regular while this "missing" is happening?
Does this same symptom occur at all in second gear under the same throttle/boost condition - say while riding against the brakes? NOTE that this requires fast feet with left-foot braking to manipulate.
If it's an ignition problem, generally the engine will cut completely requiring an almost total reduction in throttle for it to recover. But it will recover instantly when the throttle is closed or reduced and then snapped open again until boost pressure builds. Change plugs again (new ones - doesn't matter what kind at this point) and check cap, rotor, wires, etc. NOTE: I don't believe in MSD devices. There is absolutely nothing you can do to this engine to outrun a properly setup stock ignition system. Rick Byrnes ran over 200 MPH with his 500+ HP 2.3L Turbo engine XR4ti using all stock ignition components.
If it's fuel starvation, there is some lag time for the fuel pressure to come back up again so it won't be ready instantly to use full throttle for a short delay (depends on how good/bad the fuel flow is). Change the fuel filter first, then the pump next. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge set, measure the pressure and fuel flow (with the fuel return line from the fuel rail disconnected and pointing the return connector on the fuel rail into a bottle), and a stopwatch. MAKE SURE you understand what I said here before you attempt it.
Check the pressure at the same time - with engine idling - with the vacuum line disconnected. Nominal fuel pressure is 39 PSIG tested this way. If the vacuum line is connected, measured pressure will be lower. If you don't have a gauge, the fuel flow can still be measured. Have someone assist with the start/stopping of the engine (and fuel pump). Keep a fire bottle handy. Then calculate the fuel flow into liters per hour.
Lastly, and most likely, the cause of your symptom is that the engine is octane limited. If the "missing" ceases as soon as the fuel selector is flipped to Regular, then you need better fuel, need to add an octane booster or - possibly - have a problem in the knock sensor system. If you're at this point then try disconnecting JUST FOR A SHORT TEST DRIVE the knock sensor (leave the wire connector open). Do not drive the car with other than stock boost levels with this sensor disconnected. Very bad things can happen very quickly. If it's all better, replace the knock sensor with a new one (last time I checked it was about $40/US). If it's making all kinds of pinging and rattling sounds, STOP THE TESTING and reconnect it.
Lastly, increase the octane. A guaranteed test fuel for detonation-related problems is about 1/2 tank of unleaded pump premium and add: (1) full bottle of 104+ black booster and (1) one gallon of Toluene. The Toluene is available at all paint stores and you don't need a chemical lab quality. This combo will yield in the 100-110-octane value and will suffice for this test. DO NOT exceed 25% toluene in this mixture!
If it's all better now (and it'll run real nice with this fuel, BTW!!) then you need to make sure there's no oil entering the chamber (an octane degrader): rings, bores, valve stem seals on the intake side, oil vapors in the inlet track from the crankcase venting, etc. And use a better fuel. Note that most pump fuel premiums are the absolute minimum octane that these engines need.
Well, there are a couple of hours of work to keep you busy. Report back your findings, and be very verbose and analytical about it complete with driving descriptions.
Q. I am looking for the rear brake hose in the middle of the rear diff, is it SVO-specific? It is the same hose as on the 1986 5.0 Mustang. I cannot find the flex brake hose that goes from the rear housing to the frame rail. I have checked at local parts houses and there is no Bendix part number. I figured at Ford the part would be obsolete. Does anybody have a part number for this hose? I just hate to put it back together with the old hose. I found everything else at Wrenchhead.com and had a good experience with them.
Response by M. Fleming:
A. For your info, the other brake hoses are SVO-specific. They are:
Ford Part Numbers, Hose, Brake:
1984-85 E4ZZ-2282-A
1986 E6ZZ-2282-A
These are, to the best of my knowledge, SVO-only (and obsolete). I cannot be sure if they have been superceded with newer part numbers. You might call a local Ford dealer in the morning. If you haven't tried NAPA, try them.
If those options fail, or if you prefer Stainless Steel, give Phil at Stillen Brake Pros a holler -- [email protected]. Phil is a former SVO owner, and should be able to tell you which of their stainless steel hoses you want. He can also probably steer you to a dealer who may have them in stock, or even be able to sell to you direct. These are D.O.T.-approved lines. For more info, visit: http:/www.stillen.com/brakes/lines/lines.html.
Q. I have a 1984 SVO, which has this brass-like regulator inline with the return fuel line approx. 8" off the fuel rail. Through all of my different mods I've made new brackets to relocate it, and threaded the ends for AN fittings. I'm now beginning to wonder if it's really necessary to keep in there. Does anybody know what this does?
Response by M. Fleming:
A. The "brass thing" that you are talking about mounts in the feed line. It's the fuel pressure regulator.
Q. Where can I find rust repair parts for the SVO body panels?
Chris
Response by B. Fairchok:
A. Try calling Rick Paulsen at Rolling Steel Body Parts 1-888-765-5460 (TOLL FREE) or 1-440-256-8383 (Cleveland, OH). They will ship anywhere in the U.S. All body parts are original-gauge sheet metal and most are made from galvanized steel (better than many OEM panels). Most parts are in stock and they can help you with "hard-to-find" parts. They have a free catalog available.
Q. My 1984 SVO has almost 190K miles. It's a great car, but I'm losing "feel" in the steering. Do I need to rebuild my rack?
Tom R.
Response by B. Fairchok:
A. You may need to rebuild the rack, but a simpler problem may be causing your lack of steering feel. Open the engine compartment and look at the steering column. About 9/10ths of the way to the rack is a short section that bolts to the rack and the main portion of the column. This section (steering knuckle) has a "rag" joint that deteriorates with age (common to all Fox Mustangs). Replacing the rubber piece will cure the lack of steering feel. Unfortunately, the only way to do this with the engine in the car is to remove the driver's front wheel and use the "specially provided" access port to remove the bolts. It's not a fun job. So be sure to check this area if you pull the engine.
Advice by L. Medina:
When I bought my 1986 SVO it had some black generics that were unidentifiable. I found that the "only" true application for the SVO was made by Koni so I found a set of used '86 valved Konis. Big improvement! However, I had Eibach springs with progressive rates (497#-657#) part 3509.101 that would only get dampened in one direction. No matter how firm I put it, it was still not enough. I hated that. So my two options were to get some more expensive Konis or find some other way to install something that dampened in both directions (read non-adjustable). I chose option two.
I actually had the setup complete long before I actually installed them, but since I like to do things in a natural progression I waited until I was going to need an alignment for another reason. I found out during my SN95 Cobra brake installation that the Konis would not work at all due to the length of strut below the attaching bolts. Thus, my pre-configured Bilstein setup came into play at a very opportune time. I love them. I won't buy anything else now.
Here is how it is done: The onion-head strut mount must be modified and the spacer bushing has to be trimmed. First, remove the dust shield from the mount, which will give you access to a rubber bumper/bushing that must be removed. I took a pair of dykes to it and with some effort removed all of it. You can now reinstall the dust shield if you wish, but the Bilsteins I had came with their own blue dust covers. The Bilsteins I used had a 1" shaft compared to the Koni 1/2" shaft. Thus, it wouldn't fit into the rubber bumper/bushing. Next, the spacer/bushing must be trimmed or replaced. The stock Koni bushing is just under 1" (I think .900"). I had it cut to .435" by a professional machinist so I could get two spacers from one original one. But if you don't have a good machinist nearby, then you would need two that can be machined to .500." Install everything as normal and you now have the complete option.
This should work as well for non-Bilstein shocks but I cannot attest for anything but Bilstein...
Q. What fog-light covers are correct for my 1985 SVO?
A. E4ZZ-15K233-A - Mustang SVO 1984-86. These are black with raised white Marchal letters (depending on the production run, they may or may not have white lettering), and "on" indicator hole. These are different than the 1984-1986 charcoal GT fog-light covers with white lettering (E3SZ-15K233-A).
Advice by D. LaRocque:
If you require repairs done to your SVO rims, try out Pico Wheel Service, Inc. - 13149 Sherman Way, Unit "A" - North Hollywood, CA 91065; 818-982-0375. You can refer to the April 2001 issue of Mustang Illustrated for the reference article.
Advice by J. Dettori:
My 1986 SVO has finally hit the low point of daily driver status, and been moved to the "to be restored" list. Its days can only get better. I would like to build a restoration plan that starts with suspension/drivetrain refurbishing, culminating in an engine & tranny rebuild, paint job and interior makeover. I need the most help with the suspension, specifically what to do first, and upgrades that will improve the car yet keep it show worthy. This is a project that will begin next year and slowly progress towards taking it off the road for the engine and bodywork.
The problems I am currently experiencing are:
Thanks! John Dettori, jdettori@optonline
Advise by R. Osburn:
3" Down Pipe Modification
The big modification last summer to my 1984 SVO was the installation of 3-inch exhaust…Was it worth it?? Yes!! This is one of those modifications you can do to these cars and feel the difference the first time you drive it… You will notice an increase in torque and horsepower. If I had to guess, I would say there are at least 20 more horses. Most of the power is at the top half of the tachometer but there is a definite improvement throughout the revs. There is also a noticeable reduction in turbo lag. I notice that the boost comes on about 200 to 300 RPM sooner. Okay, enough with the sales pitch…Now for the specifics…What I installed was a 3-inch mandrel-bent stainless steel "down pipe." Mandrel-bent means that the diameter of the pipe remains constant through a bend, which reduces restriction in the pipe. A standard bend will cause a reduction in diameter of up to 1/2 inch. As for "down pipe," that is simply the forward-most section of the exhaust system, from the turbo down to the catalytic converter. The "down pipe" I purchased pre-manufactured from an SVO speed shop in Southern California called Esslinger Turbo Scene (ETS) for about US $100. They are by no means the only place to get them. As for the rest of the system, I had it custom built by a local exhaust shop for another US $100.
As for the installation, I discovered that the 3" pipe would not fit over the rear axle very well especially if the car is lowered. ETS and some of the other shops will tell you that their system works fine with 3-inch pipe over the axle. I didn't want to face the problem of the pipe not fitting, especially considering there is almost no difference in performance between a 3-inch and a 2 1/2-inch tailpipe. So, I installed a 2-1/2-inch diameter tailpipe assembly, which was also mandrel-bent stainless steel. I also re-used the Flo-Master muffler I had installed earlier on the car. It, too, is 3 inches in and out. As a side note: if you're going to use a catalytic converter in your system, (I did not) they are not cheap. A good one runs about US $200. ETS sells their "down pipe" with or without a catalytic converter. Also, make sure the exhaust shop installs the system so you can get the transmission and drive line out if and when you need to. On my car they installed a coupling in the pipe just behind the transmission so I can remove the front half of the system.
The theory of operation for the 3-inch exhaust with the 2-1/2-inch tailpipe is as follows. The larger pipe at the turbo end of the system allows the hot gases exiting the turbo to expand and cool. This causes a dramatic drop in pressure, which is where all the extra horsepower is generated and why the smaller tailpipe makes little or no difference. So there you have it… Exhaust as I know it. If you have any further questions, please contact me at [email protected].
Advice by B. Fairchok:
SVO Maintenance Schedule
Performing the recommended maintenance schedules helps keep our cars on the road. The SVO schedules are found in the Owner's Manual (1984 or 1985) or in the Passenger Car Maintenance Log (1986). In many cases, these manuals get misplaced as a car changes ownership. This article includes a summary of both maintenance schedules from the 1986 Passenger Car Maintenance Log. The most conservative schedule reflects "unique" driving conditions that include the following:
What is the rev limiter set at on the SVO?
What is the factory setting for timing on the SVO?
How do I set the timing on my SVO?
Fuel Injector info, replacements
Do you have a full listing of torque specs for the `84 Garrett (Turbocharger)?
What is the difference between the 85 motor and the 85.5/86 motor?
K&N Cone Installation. What do you do?
Electrical
Where is the Turbo Boost Control fuse?
Body
How to tell the difference between model years?
Suspension
How does one adjust the Koni front struts?
How does one adjust the Koni rear struts?
More Koni information on warranty and other issues
Is a little oil out the top of my struts normal?
What are the alignment specifications for the SVO?
Drivetrain
Coming Soon!
Miscellaneous
Does anyone know the front / rear weight distribution of the SVO?
Looking for skidpad data on the SVO?
What is the rev limiter set at on the SVO?
'84-'85 (non-PE Computers): 6500 RPM
85.5-86 (with PE Computer): 6750 RPM
Do you have a full listing of torque specs for the '84 Garrett (Turbocharger)?
Exhaust elbow to exhaust compressor housing:
164-181 In-Lbs with a graphite-moly based high-temp anti-sieze compound like Felpro C111
Exhaust compressor housing to bearing housing:
That would be the CHRA retaining plate bolts - very difficult to get a torque wrench on but the spec is the same as the outlet elbow bolts at 164-181 In-Lbs with the same high-temp lube.
Bearing housing to inlet compressor housing:
Same - same thread size - but with VibraTite locking compound (new bolts come already applied).
Inlet compressor housing to inlet elbow:
Not too critical but don't overtighten and crush out the cork gasket. 120-150 In-Lbs should be fine. I put these in dry with no locking compound. Pay attention when you tighten the nut that holds the EEC ground (remember that one?) to not over-tighten the bolt/stud that holds the inlet elbow in place.
Courtesy Mike Fleming, SVOOA Technical Director
What is the factory setting for timing on the SVO? 10° BTDC
Submitted by yours truly
How do I set the timing on my SVO?
If you have neither the front cam belt cover (or the tab on it) for ignition timing; or the rear cam belt cover (or the the tab on it) for cam timing, then the FIRST thing you'll want to do is -- get them.
When you do (contact an SVO parts "reseller"), and go to set your cam timing, be sure to rotate the crank by hand once or twice (clockwise, as I recall) with the tensioner loosened, and verify the timing marks are still right before tightening the tensioner. If not, reset the timing. Otherwise it's possible to be off at least one tooth.
Cam timing: align the cast-in mark on the cam sprocket with the center "ridge" (of three) on the REAR cam cover.
Crank timing: align the timing mark in the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the FRONT cam cover.
Distibutor timing (static): rotor aligned with the #1 plug wire (not always the one marked on the cap as "#1") as nearly as you can get it (given that the cap is removed!).
Ignition timing: with the SPOUT removed, initial timing is 10° BTDC (will be about 30 after the SPOUT is reconnected). DON'T remove or install the SPOUT when the engine is running -- always be sure the ignition is off.
Courtesy of Richard Nichols
Where is the Turbo Boost Control fuse?
The 1.8 amp Slow Blow in-line fuse which controls the boost is located beside or above the radio. It is round and in an inline fuse holder.
Submitted by Kendal Coker
How to tell the difference between model years
'84s - Recessed headlights, black trim, single exhaust. VIN should have 1FABP28T_[E]F______, where the bracketed E is the year of the car (E for 4) (I know, E is the fifth letter of the alphabet, but A took 0, so, . . .)
'85s - Recessed headlights, grey trim, single exhaust. VIN should be 1FABP28T_[F]F______, where the F stands for 5.
'85.5's - Flush Headlights, grey trim, dual exhaust, 4 square intake manifold. VIN should be 1FABP28T_[F]F______, where the F stands for 5, but the serial number should be high (I don't remember (or even know) the cut-off serial number for the changeover.)
'86s - Flush headlights, grey trim, dual exhaust, 4 square intake. VIN should have 1FABP28T_[E]F______, where the bracketed G is the year of the car (G for 6).
Submitted by Carl Pierce
K&N Cone Installation. What do you do?
Remove the airbox completely and attach the cone filter directly to Vane Meter.
First remove the air box. This is easy as all you need to do is first remove the lid and filter, remove the hose clamp on the bottom, remove the two screws in the tray, and remove the Evap canister hose.
This will expose the air meter and the bracket that holds it in place.
Remove the bolts that hold the air meter bracket to the fender and frame. If you are concerned, modify the bracket so that the air meter will not fall out of its place in the fender.
This is optional, but for cleanliness, remove the plate of steel from the top of the Air meter and the rubber bumpers that hold it in place.
Remove the 90-degree hose attached to the front of the air meter.
Attach the filter to the front of the air meter.
Go for a test drive. You should definitley feel a noticeable difference!
Submitted by Jeff Smith
Want some info on SVO Fuel Injection? Replacements?
Please visit the Texas SVOOA site - Injector Info by Mike Fleming.
The plastic hats are only there to protect the pintle ends and don't play much part in the spray pattern on the stock injectors. A cracked one just looks bad.
The O-rings are more critical - if the one on the top leaks, you have a fuel leak and a serious fire hazard. If the lower ones leak, then you have an air leak that could affect idle and power.
Submitted by Mike Fleming
What is the difference between the 85 motor and the 85.5/86 motor?
Same basic motor(Pistons, rods, etc...) 85.5-86 had a larger cam (A231), square bore intake (I don't know which really flowed better??), a water-cooled turbo with 1 psi more boost, revised computer calibration(PE) with 35-lb/hr injectors, In tank 88 lph fuel pump (5.0 style, more upgradeable but flows less than 84-85 SVO pumps), single to dual exhaust, 3.73 gears, and revised transmission ratios. This added up to the 30 extra HP. I did not mention the exhaust manifold differences as the debate is still out on whether 86 SVO's got the E-3 manifold or the E-6 manifold.
Submitted by Jeff Smith
Does anyone know the front / rear weight distribution of the SVO?
According to Car & Driver (10-83 issue) it's 56.6/43.4%
For more fabulous facts on the SVO, please visit the SVO Facts page!
Submitted by yours truly
Looking for skidpad data on the SVO?
October 83 Car and Driver
1/4-mi 15.5@90mph
Lateral Gs - 0.77g (on a 282ft skidpad)
October 83 Road & Track
1/4-mi 15.8@89mph
Lat Gs - 0.825
July 85 Motor Trend (1985.5 tested)
1/4-mi [email protected]
Lat Gs - 0.85g
How does one adjust the Koni front struts?
This is best explained by showing you the Koni adjustment pamphlet that came with the car - click here to view it! [link coming soon]
How does one adjust the Koni rear struts?
A less common question... It turns out, if you look carefully enough, a rotation arrow is marked on the shock housing. You'll need to raise the car and jack up the rear axle to disconnect the bottom shock bolt. Pull the shock out of the mounting bracket and, while compressing the shock fully, turn the shock in the direction of the aforementioned arrow to stiffen the shock, counter-clockwise for softer settings. (A trick to keep the shock compressed is to use a jack).
Courtesy Richard Nichols
The KONIs in my Mustang SVO have failed. What brands of replacement shocks and struts do you recommend, or should I get new KONIs? I have also heard there is a warranty on KONIs, and I can get my KONIs rebuilt -- is this true?
Please view the answer found at the top of the mustangsvo.org's Tech page - a very good explanation of each! Click here to go there directly
Courtesy www.mustangsvo.org
Is a little oil out the top of my struts normal?
A little oil out of the top of the Koni struts is perfectly normal - it occurs during break-in only. If you find gobs of oil on the struts, you have a problem.
What are the alignment specifications for the SVO?
The '86 Ford Shop Manuals list the alignment specs of all Mustangs, including the SVO, as:
caster (which is not adjustable): nom. +1.0, min. +1/4, max. +1-3/4
camber: nom. 0, min. -3/4, max. +3/4
toe: nom. +.199"(+.375 deg), min. +.063(+.125 deg), max. .313(+.625 deg).
* These are 1986 specs, earlier models should verify with the shop manuals for the appropriate year
The Mustang SVO Owners Association Inc is providing these tech questions as a service to all Mustang SVO owners and enthusiasts. This group is not responsible, and will not accept the responsibility for the accuracy of the information that appears below. You should follow up the information with your very own tech advisor or automotive technician to ascertain that the information is complete.
Input into these questions was provided by this group's tech advisors and interested individuals who wanted to help out. Should you have any questions on technical tips please forward them to this group and they will be included. Thank you.
Relay Switch:
Q: I am the current owner of a 1986 SVO that I resurrected from a salvage yard 2 years ago. One problem I have is that the radiator-mounted cooling fan does not work anymore. The previous owner wired a toggle switch to it to operate it manually. Can anyone tell me what temperature sensor operates the fan and/or where the relay and sensor may be mounted?M. Flemings' response:
As you know, the fan is controlled by the relay controller under the dash, which you indicated was replaced. It is also quite common for the wiring or the plastic moulding that holds the connectors to that controller to get damaged or melted, and Ford does have a replacement wiring repair kit (connector kit) with a replacement plastic connector moulding and new connectors that can be crimped into place. The newer controllers also have wider contact areas, to work with the replacement wiring repair kit. Ford also makes a replacement connector, vented like the '87/'88 TC's used, for the wiring that connects to the cooling fan motor itself. Good idea to replace that connector also.
And as always, check the fuses leading to the controller. With a good controller plugged into the harness and the fan motor connected, key in on position, engine off, manually switch (with a finger) each relay. One will make the fan come on. That will verify the wiring, etc.
Rich Osburn and Bob King's response:
The Electric Fan Relay is located underneath the dashboard on the driver's side, near the steering column. In 1984 SVOs, the box had an end flap that said TRW on it... but I'm not sure about the 1985/1986 cars. The box is about 2"x2" and is clearly visible when you look up from under the driver's footwell area. The temperature control switch is mounted on the intake manifold, almost dead center on the bottom. The controllers are known to have problems with the connectors deforming due to heat generated by current in the wiring. If this car lived in AZ most of its life, I would start there. I have Wiring diagrams and component pictures; if you would like them, let me know.
Seeing that the fan runs when you ground out the temperature switch is a good sign. One other thing I would like to suggest is that the engine temperature gauge is not working correctly. Especially if the cooling fan temperature switch is closing at 226 deg F. You might also make sure the radiator is getting good coolant flow and that the thermostat is working properly.
Part Numbers: Pistons/Rods
Q: I bought a 1985-1/2 SVO. I am in the middle of rebuilding the engine that has 180,000 miles on it. The other day we got the motor apart, and you can tell it has been apart before. My question is about the part numbers on the pistons and rods. They start with D3EZ, which I thought was '73, not '85. Are these the correct pistons and rods? Also, what is the difference, if any, between a regular 2300 block and a 2.3 turbo block?
Response by M. Fleming:
A: The rods used in all Brazilian-made Ford 2.3L OHC engines are the same and are from the original design in 1973 (first production year was 1974). Rods use Ford service part number D7FZ-6200-A, according to my 1984 Parts Manual. The number stamped on the actual part is an engineering number and will be different from the service replacement part number (used to order replacement parts from your local or distant Ford dealer).
There were several pistons available for the 2.3L series of engines with the main categories being normally aspirated 9:1 compression ratio, the 79-80 carbureted turbo engine forged piston also of 9:1 c/r, and lastly the EFI turbocharged piston which is a dished (not flat-top!) forged piston providing a c/r of 8:1. This is recognized by the "D-shaped" dish in the piston, approximately matching the rotation (of the "D") with the cylinder heads combustion chamber "D" shape). The outer edges of the piston, on the top, are completely flat. There is also an arrow pointing forwards, to be installed facing the front (water pump end) of the block. This is the best piston to use in the EFI turbo engine and is quite strong.
Close examination of the underside [of the EFI turbo piston] will reveal no sand pitting (as long as the part hasn't been sand-blasted for cleaning!) as would be seen in a typical cast piston. All non-machined surfaces are quite smooth and without casting flash. The piston pin is quite thick-walled and heavy (piston with pin is ~619 grams).
The service part number for the N/A piston is E3TZ-6108-? (size spec) whereas the forged EFI turbo piston is E3ZZ-6108-? (size, again). The EFI turbo pistons are no longer serviced by Ford as they became obsolete several years ago. I've heard that TRW makes an equivalent forged replacement but it's not listed in their "normal" catalog. Nick Maranello at Modern Performance, Inc. in New Jersey (www.modernperformanceinc.com) can provide info on the TRW pistons as he uses them frequently in his engines.
The only difference between the normally aspirated block and the turbo block is the addition of the oil return fitting boss on the right side to allow for return of the turbo's lubricant/cooling oil back to the sump. It's about centered between cylinders 2 & 3 and just above the sump gasket line. I seem to remember that there is also an internal baffle, but it's been some time since I had a block apart.
I expect it would be very difficult to modify a normally aspirated block to add the oil-return hole, as the block material isn't generous in that area. It would probably be easier to add the oil return to the top rear of the sump (oil pan), fabricate new oil drain line from the CHRA using AN-12 or larger fittings and then deal with the windage issues inside the sump with baffling. It would be a good idea to reinforce the sump material where the return fitting attaches to handle the extreme vibration of an over-square 4-cylinder engine. This is not a job for the timid.
Q: OK, I am finished with the front brakes (hoses, rotors, bearings, seals, pads, etc). Does anyone have tips on doing the rear pads? The rear is quite different than the front brakes.
Gary Sinde
Response by M. Fleming:
A: Again - the very first step is to flush the whole brake system with clean, fresh fluid. I like to use Castrol GT/LMA - personal choice - although any DOT3 or DOT4 fluid is acceptable. My advice on the rears is to take it to a competent brake shop (please note the word "competent" generally does not include places like Brake Monsters, Pep Boys, Midas, etc.) and pay someone that's experienced with this caliper to do it. As old as the cars are now, expect to have the calipers rebuilt. Special tools and some previous experience are highly recommended.
The calipers aren't serviced by FoMoCo any more and are in extremely short supply as rebuilt units, and quite expensive. Best to not learn "what not to do" on this area of the car. Fortunately, seal kits and some internal parts are still available - although pricey. Like the parking brake adjuster assemblies. Replace the three hoses also (one short one at each caliper, longer middle one from the differential housing to the chassis near center). If you decide to do it yourself, look into buying a "previously owned" set of rear calipers and rebuild those on the bench, install them into your car, fit new hoses, bleed, etc. The "previously owned" ones will be over 15 years old too, so work will still be needed. Then sell the ones you removed.
Q: I know a guy who has a 1984 SVO with shot ball joints. He can't find a replacement part number. I thought the Lincoln Mark VII used the same ball joints. True? If not, what can he use?
Robert Lyons
Response by M. Fleming:
A: Well, your information is partly correct!
The front A-Arms on the SVO did come from the Mark VII parts bin, with the left and right coming from different years (I have no idea why...). Unfortunately, the "ball joint" on the forged steel front A-Arms is part of the arm. The outer race of the ball joint is an integral part of the arm and the ball is retained into the arm/race by rolling over a portion of the arm itself. Unlike the stamped-steel (thick sheet metal) arms, the arms on the Mark VII/SVO do not use riveted ball joints, and thus cannot be replaced.
Your best bet is to locate a set of "previously owned" a-arms and get some new boots. A little sandblasting and paint will make them function like new. Try e-Bay or the suppliers list on www.mustangsvo.org for sources of previously owned SVO parts. At one time FoMoCo was providing these arms, but they weren't in pairs and had sporadic availability. I do not know if they are still orderable from your local Ford dealer; perhaps a phone call will provide more data. Please note that "orderable" does not necessarily mean "available."
There was a project to make replacement tubular arms by an aftermarket suspension manufacturer, but I never heard of any parts being made. I suspect the extremely limited market versus high tooling costs killed the project.
Other than the above, it is possible to get one of the aftermarket tubular "K" frames with a-arms and fit those but it is a major project to remove the engine/gearbox, complete front suspension, brakes, etc. just to fit the K frame.
Q: I happen to have a question about my 1984 SVO. I managed to get the thing pretty cheap, since the rear was 90% blown, there was light cosmetic damage to the front of the car as well as having Capri fenders. I knew there was cosmetic front-end damage, but only after I took the front bumper cover off did I discover the headlight-mounting panel was cracked and beyond hope, and every light on the front of the car was broken at the mounting points. I've managed to find a place making reproduction fiberglass headlight panels, but before I drop about 400 bucks on this thing, I need to know where I can find lights for this car. I just want to know, is there ANYONE out there who is making ANY SVO reproduction headlights?
Owen Albert
Response by B. Fairchok:
A: No reproductions are available. Decent used sets will probably cost $300-$600 when you find them.
Q: My 1986 SVO has been in storage for 10 years; I want to get it back on the road. What do I need to do?
Steve Vacilotto
Response by M. Fleming and D. Malek:
A: You should do the following (not necessarily in this order):
- Change all the fluids (gearbox, engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer fluid, differential, gas).
- Take a look at the calipers; they have this nasty habit of allowing water to sit in the bottom and rust out; take them completely apart, clean them, and replace the seals.
- Take a look at the rotors; they could be so badly rusted they may need to be replaced.
- Replace battery, set clock, radio, etc.
- Check all hoses and replace as needed. I would expect some or all to be hard and probably in need of replacement. You may want to replace the timing belt.
- Clean, de-oxidize and wax the painted surfaces.
- You probably may want to service the AC system. By that I mean to evacuate any freon, check for leaks and recharge the system.
- Check the tires. If the car has been sitting on the ground on the tires, they'll need to be replaced. Will have serious flat spots that'll not be recoverable. If it was on stands, then look for tire rotting and replace as needed.
- The other problem you have is with engine valve springs. Some of them have been compressed for so long they are probably very weak when the valve is closed. It may not be a problem if driven lightly on the street, but if you have a habit of living at high RPMs they will start to float. The cylinder walls could be really rusted and rings stuck, so it may never perform well or it could start using oil. Same for the valve stem seals, probably cracked and leaking by now. 1
- For the paranoid, pull the distributor and prime the oil pump (with the freshly changed engine oil!) before first cranking the engine. I use a 1/4-inch deep socket and a small ratchet with extension to turn the oil pump shaft beneath the distributor to spread oil through the engine. Then, hand-rotate the engine a couple of turns, to get the oil flowing. Oil left in the crankcase has the nasty tendency to produce sulfuric acids that corrode the metal. Drive it for about 50 to 100 miles with the engine good and hot, then drain and refill again. With fresh oil the turbo will be just fine.
DB.Response by D. LaRocque:
A: Try some bug remover first, and make sure the lights are actually pitted. If you have small cracks or holes, you can use a windshield repair kit, such as Permatex Bullseye. I would not recommend grinding the lens, as you would likely throw off the focus. Note: This question was included in a "Wheels" section of a local paper.
Q: I have a surging problem with my SVO. How do I deal with this problem? What's the cause?
Tim Booth
Response by B. Hutchinson:
A: I bought a 1985-1/2 SVO in April and my experience with computer-controlled turbo waste-gate engines started there. I am a retired product design engineer and engineering supervisor with 34 years experience at Ford in Dearborn.
The first occurrence of this problem was a complaint of mid-rpm surging at WOT, made by my 34-year-old son, a mechanical engineer for Allied Signal. He drove my SVO for a week last June. The next occurrence of the problem was in August when WOT acceleration at freeway speeds produced a rapid surge (maybe 30 times per second) similar to trailer hitch jerking. Vehicle acceleration under this condition was nearly non-existent. By backing off the throttle a small amount, the surge disappeared and acceleration improved to just less than what I expected at WOT (nearly normal).
I tried different premium gasolines with no success and finally added a bottle of 104+ Black octane improver (Mike Fleming's recommendation). The weather turned much cooler at the same time I added the 104+, clouding the issue. The surge problem has improved considerably by the 104+ and cooler temperatures with nearly normal WOT acceleration. However, I now notice a slow (three times a second) cycling of the turbo boost pressure from about 12 to 15 psi. All of the above situations were with the fuel switch in the premium position. There has been very little, if any, problem in the regular fuel position.
I now believe that I have had an ongoing problem with turbo surging at a low frequency that for a short time was compounded by a fuel octane deficiency. The knock sensor may have been causing a retard in spark and possibly mandating a reduction in boost, combining with a tuning problem in the waste-gate pressure control system. I am not certain, but suspect the low frequency boost pressure fluctuation was there from the time I purchased my SVO.
I noticed a warning decal on a friend's early 1985 SVO. It stated that the length of the waste-gate pressure signal hose was critical to the waste-gate control system. My hose is not original equipment and, after 50,000 miles, my waste-gate and pressure sensor may have lost some spring force. These items may have resulted in a pressure wave propagation in the boost control system (like water hammering in house plumbing, but much slower). I hope to temporarily remove the computer control of the waste-gate by using a manual control and see if the surging disappears completely.
I discussed the surging with a few SVO owners at Elkhart Lake a week ago and heard several suggestions. One that made some sense was to replace the distributor cap and plug wires. I will do this as soon as I complete some assignments from my spouse. I did change my spark plugs in the summer and am thinking of changing to a different brand of plug if the problem persists.
Part 2 of the response:
The cold weather seems to have taken care of my octane problem and I can now run without 104+ in the tank. I will have to wait until next summer to see if the problem comes back. However, the surge in power is still there and the boost gauge is still bouncing from 15 to 12 psi. (At least until yesterday!) I installed a waste-gate control elbow borrowed from Brian Chomicz, and the surge is gone! I measured the inside diameters of both elbows and found that one leg is larger than the other. The hoses on my car had been reversed, until I changed the elbows. The inside diameter of the leg going to the waste-gate is much larger than that going to the computer-controlled valve or that going into the turbo housing. This difference would slow the signal to the computer. When reversed, the signal to the waste-gate was slowed, causing it to be out of step with what the engine wanted. Why didn't I notice this earlier? Guess I assumed the routing was correct or of no great importance until I knew of the difference in diameters. Shame on me! Thanks again for the advice. There is no doubt the octane control system was making the surge problem much worse.
REPLACEMENT SVO BRAKE LINES I
Response by B. Chomicz
I just wanted to make you all aware of another company out there that can supply some quality brake hard lines for the SVO....
As some of you may remember, I am totally gutting my '86. It is currently in the process of going back together. I had wanted to replace all of my brake lines with stainless for durability and appearance.
I found a company fairly close to me (Fraser, Michigan) that does some good-quality work. The name of the company is In-Line Tube (http://www.inlinetube. com/). Their web site is done well and has a lot of useful information in it.
However, I did not see any specific mention of SVO hard lines. Since the company is close to my house I took all of my SVO hard lines up there and asked if they could make a set using these as templates. The answer was "no problem." I just had to decide if I wanted stainless or not. That decision was a no-brainer. About a week later I went to pick up my new line set. On initial inspection, I was very impressed with the quality and attention to detail. Not only did they duplicate the original lines but the spiral wrap as well. The replacement lines looked great! I got the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve, driver front line, passenger line, rear line across the bulk head, rear line that goes under the car, and both hard lines across the rear axle. I even bought some nice stainless line clamps to make the installation that much cleaner looking.
Total price for all of the hard lines.... $170 (US) stainless or $150 for regular steel.
The installation of the lines went smoothly and I only had to "tweak" one line a little bit to get a better fit. The replacement lines were bent by hand instead of a CNC bender. However, I let them keep my original lines so that they could use them as a master set to make more, or scan them into their system at their leisure. When I took my car apart I noticed one of my emergency brake cables was a little sticky from rust and road grime. Now, my car never has seen a Michigan winter so most of this must have been from rain. So while they were working on the brake lines I also had them look at making some stainless steel emergency brake cables. They had never done this specific car before and did not know if they could make replacement parts.
After some checking, In-Line Tube decided they could make a replacement if they could use the return springs and the caliper "horseshoe clip" from the original cable. I did not think this was going to be a problem, so I had them do it. These took about 2.5 weeks for them to make, and the wait was well worth it. The lines look gorgeous and everything looks right. All of the spiral wrap and rubber insulators were included and in the correct locations. Total price for the emergency brake cables... $70/each (US) stainless or $50/each for steel. I have not installed the emergency brake cables yet, but the trial fit went just fine. I hope to get these installed, along with the new fuel lines in, so that the suspension can go back in the car. I would not hesitate using this company again.
Inline Tube - 33783 Groesbeck Hwy - Fraser, MI 48026 - Order: (800) 385-9452; Tech: (810) 294-4093; Fax: (810) 294-7349
Response by A. Holmberg: If your SVO still sports the original wheel locks and socket, I suggest you consider ordering a replacement wheel lug-nut key. The original lug-nut key that was tethered to the wheel wrench by a short cable relies on the meshing of the lock to keep it centered. As the edges of the locking lug nut and key socket grooves wear (even with normal use) a positive meshing of the two pieces becomes impossible. When this happens, as you apply torque to the wheel wrench, the key will easily slip out of the grooves and often the result is an ugly scratch on the surface of the wheel and/or a skinned knuckle. The skinned knuckle will heal but damage to the wheel is permanent, unless of course you have the wheel refinished.
Best you drop down to your local Ford Parts Department and order up a replacement key. The replacement is of superior design, in that it is constructed much like a normal socket. It slips over the locking lug nut. Therefore, if the lock should disengage, the socket remains secure on the lug nut, and no harm is done. The original key has a color-code (for example - white/blue) sticker on the wrench end or your dealer should have a set of 'McGard Master' keys that can be used to determine your code. Cost of the new key lock is $15 in Canada ($18 in US ed.). If you have the correct color code you can probably order directly from McGard.
Your local Ford parts department has a McGard order form. The ordering itself was simple and it took about ten days for the piece to come in. McGard's web site is: ww.mcgard.com/automotive/.
Q. I have a problem that maybe you can help with. Here's the situation: I have a 1986 SVO with 40k on it. The motor recently started to miss under heavy load and full boost (usually in third). Thinking it was electrical, I replaced all plugs, wires and cap+rotor with MSD stuff. That didn't work, so I went to my local 5.0 speed shop and they recommended a MSD 6al box to fix the problem. I installed the box and it still does the same thing. What is the deal?
Kevin - Columbia, SC
Response by M. Fleming:
A. Well, first off, I'd like to get a better description of what "miss under heavy load and full boost (usually in third)" means. Be verbose in your description: exactly how it feels, cold, warm or hot; what the tach needle does; engine sounds, etc. Is it bucking or stumbling, or cutting out completely? Is the fuel selector in Regular or Premium when this occurs? What, exactly, happens when this switch is changed between Premium and Regular while this "missing" is happening?
Does this same symptom occur at all in second gear under the same throttle/boost condition - say while riding against the brakes? NOTE that this requires fast feet with left-foot braking to manipulate.
If it's an ignition problem, generally the engine will cut completely requiring an almost total reduction in throttle for it to recover. But it will recover instantly when the throttle is closed or reduced and then snapped open again until boost pressure builds. Change plugs again (new ones - doesn't matter what kind at this point) and check cap, rotor, wires, etc. NOTE: I don't believe in MSD devices. There is absolutely nothing you can do to this engine to outrun a properly setup stock ignition system. Rick Byrnes ran over 200 MPH with his 500+ HP 2.3L Turbo engine XR4ti using all stock ignition components.
If it's fuel starvation, there is some lag time for the fuel pressure to come back up again so it won't be ready instantly to use full throttle for a short delay (depends on how good/bad the fuel flow is). Change the fuel filter first, then the pump next. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge set, measure the pressure and fuel flow (with the fuel return line from the fuel rail disconnected and pointing the return connector on the fuel rail into a bottle), and a stopwatch. MAKE SURE you understand what I said here before you attempt it.
Check the pressure at the same time - with engine idling - with the vacuum line disconnected. Nominal fuel pressure is 39 PSIG tested this way. If the vacuum line is connected, measured pressure will be lower. If you don't have a gauge, the fuel flow can still be measured. Have someone assist with the start/stopping of the engine (and fuel pump). Keep a fire bottle handy. Then calculate the fuel flow into liters per hour.
Lastly, and most likely, the cause of your symptom is that the engine is octane limited. If the "missing" ceases as soon as the fuel selector is flipped to Regular, then you need better fuel, need to add an octane booster or - possibly - have a problem in the knock sensor system. If you're at this point then try disconnecting JUST FOR A SHORT TEST DRIVE the knock sensor (leave the wire connector open). Do not drive the car with other than stock boost levels with this sensor disconnected. Very bad things can happen very quickly. If it's all better, replace the knock sensor with a new one (last time I checked it was about $40/US). If it's making all kinds of pinging and rattling sounds, STOP THE TESTING and reconnect it.
Lastly, increase the octane. A guaranteed test fuel for detonation-related problems is about 1/2 tank of unleaded pump premium and add: (1) full bottle of 104+ black booster and (1) one gallon of Toluene. The Toluene is available at all paint stores and you don't need a chemical lab quality. This combo will yield in the 100-110-octane value and will suffice for this test. DO NOT exceed 25% toluene in this mixture!
If it's all better now (and it'll run real nice with this fuel, BTW!!) then you need to make sure there's no oil entering the chamber (an octane degrader): rings, bores, valve stem seals on the intake side, oil vapors in the inlet track from the crankcase venting, etc. And use a better fuel. Note that most pump fuel premiums are the absolute minimum octane that these engines need.
Well, there are a couple of hours of work to keep you busy. Report back your findings, and be very verbose and analytical about it complete with driving descriptions.
Q. I am looking for the rear brake hose in the middle of the rear diff, is it SVO-specific? It is the same hose as on the 1986 5.0 Mustang. I cannot find the flex brake hose that goes from the rear housing to the frame rail. I have checked at local parts houses and there is no Bendix part number. I figured at Ford the part would be obsolete. Does anybody have a part number for this hose? I just hate to put it back together with the old hose. I found everything else at Wrenchhead.com and had a good experience with them.
Response by M. Fleming:
A. For your info, the other brake hoses are SVO-specific. They are:
Ford Part Numbers, Hose, Brake:
1984-85 E4ZZ-2282-A
1986 E6ZZ-2282-A
These are, to the best of my knowledge, SVO-only (and obsolete). I cannot be sure if they have been superceded with newer part numbers. You might call a local Ford dealer in the morning. If you haven't tried NAPA, try them.
If those options fail, or if you prefer Stainless Steel, give Phil at Stillen Brake Pros a holler -- [email protected]. Phil is a former SVO owner, and should be able to tell you which of their stainless steel hoses you want. He can also probably steer you to a dealer who may have them in stock, or even be able to sell to you direct. These are D.O.T.-approved lines. For more info, visit: http:/www.stillen.com/brakes/lines/lines.html.
Q. I have a 1984 SVO, which has this brass-like regulator inline with the return fuel line approx. 8" off the fuel rail. Through all of my different mods I've made new brackets to relocate it, and threaded the ends for AN fittings. I'm now beginning to wonder if it's really necessary to keep in there. Does anybody know what this does?
Response by M. Fleming:
A. The "brass thing" that you are talking about mounts in the feed line. It's the fuel pressure regulator.
Q. Where can I find rust repair parts for the SVO body panels?
Chris
Response by B. Fairchok:
A. Try calling Rick Paulsen at Rolling Steel Body Parts 1-888-765-5460 (TOLL FREE) or 1-440-256-8383 (Cleveland, OH). They will ship anywhere in the U.S. All body parts are original-gauge sheet metal and most are made from galvanized steel (better than many OEM panels). Most parts are in stock and they can help you with "hard-to-find" parts. They have a free catalog available.
Q. My 1984 SVO has almost 190K miles. It's a great car, but I'm losing "feel" in the steering. Do I need to rebuild my rack?
Tom R.
Response by B. Fairchok:
A. You may need to rebuild the rack, but a simpler problem may be causing your lack of steering feel. Open the engine compartment and look at the steering column. About 9/10ths of the way to the rack is a short section that bolts to the rack and the main portion of the column. This section (steering knuckle) has a "rag" joint that deteriorates with age (common to all Fox Mustangs). Replacing the rubber piece will cure the lack of steering feel. Unfortunately, the only way to do this with the engine in the car is to remove the driver's front wheel and use the "specially provided" access port to remove the bolts. It's not a fun job. So be sure to check this area if you pull the engine.
Advice by L. Medina:
When I bought my 1986 SVO it had some black generics that were unidentifiable. I found that the "only" true application for the SVO was made by Koni so I found a set of used '86 valved Konis. Big improvement! However, I had Eibach springs with progressive rates (497#-657#) part 3509.101 that would only get dampened in one direction. No matter how firm I put it, it was still not enough. I hated that. So my two options were to get some more expensive Konis or find some other way to install something that dampened in both directions (read non-adjustable). I chose option two.
I actually had the setup complete long before I actually installed them, but since I like to do things in a natural progression I waited until I was going to need an alignment for another reason. I found out during my SN95 Cobra brake installation that the Konis would not work at all due to the length of strut below the attaching bolts. Thus, my pre-configured Bilstein setup came into play at a very opportune time. I love them. I won't buy anything else now.
Here is how it is done: The onion-head strut mount must be modified and the spacer bushing has to be trimmed. First, remove the dust shield from the mount, which will give you access to a rubber bumper/bushing that must be removed. I took a pair of dykes to it and with some effort removed all of it. You can now reinstall the dust shield if you wish, but the Bilsteins I had came with their own blue dust covers. The Bilsteins I used had a 1" shaft compared to the Koni 1/2" shaft. Thus, it wouldn't fit into the rubber bumper/bushing. Next, the spacer/bushing must be trimmed or replaced. The stock Koni bushing is just under 1" (I think .900"). I had it cut to .435" by a professional machinist so I could get two spacers from one original one. But if you don't have a good machinist nearby, then you would need two that can be machined to .500." Install everything as normal and you now have the complete option.
This should work as well for non-Bilstein shocks but I cannot attest for anything but Bilstein...
Q. What fog-light covers are correct for my 1985 SVO?
A. E4ZZ-15K233-A - Mustang SVO 1984-86. These are black with raised white Marchal letters (depending on the production run, they may or may not have white lettering), and "on" indicator hole. These are different than the 1984-1986 charcoal GT fog-light covers with white lettering (E3SZ-15K233-A).
Advice by D. LaRocque:
If you require repairs done to your SVO rims, try out Pico Wheel Service, Inc. - 13149 Sherman Way, Unit "A" - North Hollywood, CA 91065; 818-982-0375. You can refer to the April 2001 issue of Mustang Illustrated for the reference article.
Advice by J. Dettori:
My 1986 SVO has finally hit the low point of daily driver status, and been moved to the "to be restored" list. Its days can only get better. I would like to build a restoration plan that starts with suspension/drivetrain refurbishing, culminating in an engine & tranny rebuild, paint job and interior makeover. I need the most help with the suspension, specifically what to do first, and upgrades that will improve the car yet keep it show worthy. This is a project that will begin next year and slowly progress towards taking it off the road for the engine and bodywork.
The problems I am currently experiencing are:
- Excessive front tire wear
- Extremely harsh ride (springs?). The Konis are set on their softest setting.
- Rear axle whine
- Reduced braking ability
- Front end noise (speed related); sounds like I'm pushing a cardboard box everywhere, when there's nothing stuck under or to the car.
- Nervous-loose feeling in inclement weather
- Excessive body roll on clover-leafs
- New front Koni struts (free from Koni) 5,000 miles ago
- New cat back exhaust
- Wheel alignment - told me it couldn't be lined up properly (said I had 1.2-degrees negative camber - meaning the strut was tilting forward?)
- Had the rear looked at, since this would be the 2nd time in 60,000 miles I had the rear apart, I was advised to buy an 8.8, transfer my axles, brakes, etc. and not repair Ford's weak 7.5 again.
Thanks! John Dettori, jdettori@optonline
Advise by R. Osburn:
3" Down Pipe Modification
The big modification last summer to my 1984 SVO was the installation of 3-inch exhaust…Was it worth it?? Yes!! This is one of those modifications you can do to these cars and feel the difference the first time you drive it… You will notice an increase in torque and horsepower. If I had to guess, I would say there are at least 20 more horses. Most of the power is at the top half of the tachometer but there is a definite improvement throughout the revs. There is also a noticeable reduction in turbo lag. I notice that the boost comes on about 200 to 300 RPM sooner. Okay, enough with the sales pitch…Now for the specifics…What I installed was a 3-inch mandrel-bent stainless steel "down pipe." Mandrel-bent means that the diameter of the pipe remains constant through a bend, which reduces restriction in the pipe. A standard bend will cause a reduction in diameter of up to 1/2 inch. As for "down pipe," that is simply the forward-most section of the exhaust system, from the turbo down to the catalytic converter. The "down pipe" I purchased pre-manufactured from an SVO speed shop in Southern California called Esslinger Turbo Scene (ETS) for about US $100. They are by no means the only place to get them. As for the rest of the system, I had it custom built by a local exhaust shop for another US $100.
As for the installation, I discovered that the 3" pipe would not fit over the rear axle very well especially if the car is lowered. ETS and some of the other shops will tell you that their system works fine with 3-inch pipe over the axle. I didn't want to face the problem of the pipe not fitting, especially considering there is almost no difference in performance between a 3-inch and a 2 1/2-inch tailpipe. So, I installed a 2-1/2-inch diameter tailpipe assembly, which was also mandrel-bent stainless steel. I also re-used the Flo-Master muffler I had installed earlier on the car. It, too, is 3 inches in and out. As a side note: if you're going to use a catalytic converter in your system, (I did not) they are not cheap. A good one runs about US $200. ETS sells their "down pipe" with or without a catalytic converter. Also, make sure the exhaust shop installs the system so you can get the transmission and drive line out if and when you need to. On my car they installed a coupling in the pipe just behind the transmission so I can remove the front half of the system.
The theory of operation for the 3-inch exhaust with the 2-1/2-inch tailpipe is as follows. The larger pipe at the turbo end of the system allows the hot gases exiting the turbo to expand and cool. This causes a dramatic drop in pressure, which is where all the extra horsepower is generated and why the smaller tailpipe makes little or no difference. So there you have it… Exhaust as I know it. If you have any further questions, please contact me at [email protected].
Advice by B. Fairchok:
SVO Maintenance Schedule
Performing the recommended maintenance schedules helps keep our cars on the road. The SVO schedules are found in the Owner's Manual (1984 or 1985) or in the Passenger Car Maintenance Log (1986). In many cases, these manuals get misplaced as a car changes ownership. This article includes a summary of both maintenance schedules from the 1986 Passenger Car Maintenance Log. The most conservative schedule reflects "unique" driving conditions that include the following:
- Operating when outside temperatures remain below freezing and most trips are less than five miles
- Operating in hot (90oF) weather and driving in excess of normal highway speeds or stop and go traffic
- Towing a trailer (Not applicable to turbocharged cars - may damage engine)
- Operating in severe dust conditions
- Extensive idling, such as police, taxi, or door-to-door delivery
- Change Oil - Every Three Months or 3,000 Miles/Every 5,000 Miles 5 Quarts of 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 20W40, or 15W40 depending on climate and driving conditions. (Note: A lower number is more viscous (heavier) oil so 5W30 and 10 W30 are used in summer while 10W40 or 20W40 (lighter oils) are for winter use. (This is a critical item for any turbocharged car. - ed.)
- Change Oil Filter - Every Oil Change/Same FL-300 Motorcraft. Don't scrimp with a turbocharged engine. Change the filter with the oil.
- Spark Plug Replacement - Every 15,000 Miles/Every 30,000 Miles AWSF-32C - 4 needed. These are different from the non-turbo 2.3L.
- Inspect Accessory Drive Belts - Every 30,000 Miles/Same
- Replace Air Filter - Every 30,000 Miles/SameMotorcraft FA-970 (If you use a K&N, it is time to oil the filter).
- Change Engine Coolant, Check Hoses/Clamps - Every 36 Months Or 30,000 Miles/Same 10.8 Quarts of A 50/50 Mixture of Water and Antifreeze (Note: The 50/50 Water and Antifreeze (glycol) mixture is a eutectic, that is, the properties of the mixture are better than the individual components. It is especially important for cold weather storage or operation. DO NOT use pure antifreeze.)
- Inspect Heat Shields (Exhaust) - Every 30,000 Miles/Same
- Lubricate Steering and Suspension - Every 30,000 Miles/Same
- Change Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve - Every 30,000 Miles/Same Motorcraft EV-127-A
- Check engine oil level (very important in a turbocharged car)
- Check windshield washer fluid level
- Look for low or under-inflated tires
- Check for fluid leaks under the car (water dripping from A/C is normal)
- Check tire pressure (tires must be cold).
- Check the coolant level in the overflow reservoir.
- Check the operation of all exterior lights including the fog lamps, brake lights, turn signal, and hazard warning flasher. (This might keep someone from hitting you!)
- Check windshield wiper spray and operation. Replace worn blades.
- Check for worn tires/loose lug nuts.
- Check pressure in spare tire. (Recently, I had a blowout on our van and the spare was out of air! The five-lug spare was missing out of the last SVO we bought).
- Check headlight alignment.
- Check exhaust system.
- Inspect the lap shoulder belts for wear. (NOTE: There is a recall on the seat belts on our cars. Our son had a belt fall apart in his hands. This work will be performed free.
- Check the radiator, heater and A/C hoses for leaks or damage.
- Inspect the engine drive belts for wear or cracks. This includes the timing belt. I had one of these break on the '84 ragtop. Fortunately, the non-interference design prevented any engine damage. The car lost power and quit.)
- Check parking brake operation.
- Lubricate all hinges (with polyethylene grease) and all outside key locks (with lock lubricant).
- Lubricate all door/hatch weather stripping with silicon lube. (Includes sunroof if so equipped.)
- Check the power steering fluid level
- Check the brake fluid level. (Brake fluid damages paint!)
- Check the A/C before the warm season begins
- Clean the body water drain holes. Also check the sunroof drain tubes if the car is so equipped. These thankless jobs prevent rust.
- Inspect floor pans under driver's and passenger's seats for cracks. (This is not in the manual, but all early Fox-bodied cars are prone to cracking.)
- Clean the battery connections.
- Lubricate the transmission controls and linkage.
- Note any changes in the sound of the exhaust, any smell of fumes, or appearance of smoke. (Blue-white smoke may mean the valve stem seals are cracked and require replacement. White smoke may mean the turbo needs attention).
- Check for any vibrations in the steering wheel. Notice any increased steering effort or looseness in the steering wheel. (Steering rack may need rebuilding after 150K).
- Notice if your car constantly turns slightly or pulls to one side of the road. (Alignment problem).
- When stopping, listen and check for strange sounds, pulling to one side, increased brake pedal travel, or hard to push brake pedal.
- Listen for slipping of the gears, grinding of gears, or clutch pedal travel. (We thought we needed a clutch replacement recently on the 86 2R. Unfortunately, the main engine oil seal gave way. Both the engine and tranny had to be pulled.)
What is the rev limiter set at on the SVO?
What is the factory setting for timing on the SVO?
How do I set the timing on my SVO?
Fuel Injector info, replacements
Do you have a full listing of torque specs for the `84 Garrett (Turbocharger)?
What is the difference between the 85 motor and the 85.5/86 motor?
K&N Cone Installation. What do you do?
Electrical
Where is the Turbo Boost Control fuse?
Body
How to tell the difference between model years?
Suspension
How does one adjust the Koni front struts?
How does one adjust the Koni rear struts?
More Koni information on warranty and other issues
Is a little oil out the top of my struts normal?
What are the alignment specifications for the SVO?
Drivetrain
Coming Soon!
Miscellaneous
Does anyone know the front / rear weight distribution of the SVO?
Looking for skidpad data on the SVO?
What is the rev limiter set at on the SVO?
'84-'85 (non-PE Computers): 6500 RPM
85.5-86 (with PE Computer): 6750 RPM
Do you have a full listing of torque specs for the '84 Garrett (Turbocharger)?
Exhaust elbow to exhaust compressor housing:
164-181 In-Lbs with a graphite-moly based high-temp anti-sieze compound like Felpro C111
Exhaust compressor housing to bearing housing:
That would be the CHRA retaining plate bolts - very difficult to get a torque wrench on but the spec is the same as the outlet elbow bolts at 164-181 In-Lbs with the same high-temp lube.
Bearing housing to inlet compressor housing:
Same - same thread size - but with VibraTite locking compound (new bolts come already applied).
Inlet compressor housing to inlet elbow:
Not too critical but don't overtighten and crush out the cork gasket. 120-150 In-Lbs should be fine. I put these in dry with no locking compound. Pay attention when you tighten the nut that holds the EEC ground (remember that one?) to not over-tighten the bolt/stud that holds the inlet elbow in place.
Courtesy Mike Fleming, SVOOA Technical Director
What is the factory setting for timing on the SVO? 10° BTDC
Submitted by yours truly
How do I set the timing on my SVO?
If you have neither the front cam belt cover (or the tab on it) for ignition timing; or the rear cam belt cover (or the the tab on it) for cam timing, then the FIRST thing you'll want to do is -- get them.
When you do (contact an SVO parts "reseller"), and go to set your cam timing, be sure to rotate the crank by hand once or twice (clockwise, as I recall) with the tensioner loosened, and verify the timing marks are still right before tightening the tensioner. If not, reset the timing. Otherwise it's possible to be off at least one tooth.
Cam timing: align the cast-in mark on the cam sprocket with the center "ridge" (of three) on the REAR cam cover.
Crank timing: align the timing mark in the crank pulley with the TDC mark on the FRONT cam cover.
Distibutor timing (static): rotor aligned with the #1 plug wire (not always the one marked on the cap as "#1") as nearly as you can get it (given that the cap is removed!).
Ignition timing: with the SPOUT removed, initial timing is 10° BTDC (will be about 30 after the SPOUT is reconnected). DON'T remove or install the SPOUT when the engine is running -- always be sure the ignition is off.
Courtesy of Richard Nichols
Where is the Turbo Boost Control fuse?
The 1.8 amp Slow Blow in-line fuse which controls the boost is located beside or above the radio. It is round and in an inline fuse holder.
Submitted by Kendal Coker
How to tell the difference between model years
'84s - Recessed headlights, black trim, single exhaust. VIN should have 1FABP28T_[E]F______, where the bracketed E is the year of the car (E for 4) (I know, E is the fifth letter of the alphabet, but A took 0, so, . . .)
'85s - Recessed headlights, grey trim, single exhaust. VIN should be 1FABP28T_[F]F______, where the F stands for 5.
'85.5's - Flush Headlights, grey trim, dual exhaust, 4 square intake manifold. VIN should be 1FABP28T_[F]F______, where the F stands for 5, but the serial number should be high (I don't remember (or even know) the cut-off serial number for the changeover.)
'86s - Flush headlights, grey trim, dual exhaust, 4 square intake. VIN should have 1FABP28T_[E]F______, where the bracketed G is the year of the car (G for 6).
Submitted by Carl Pierce
K&N Cone Installation. What do you do?
Remove the airbox completely and attach the cone filter directly to Vane Meter.
First remove the air box. This is easy as all you need to do is first remove the lid and filter, remove the hose clamp on the bottom, remove the two screws in the tray, and remove the Evap canister hose.
This will expose the air meter and the bracket that holds it in place.
Remove the bolts that hold the air meter bracket to the fender and frame. If you are concerned, modify the bracket so that the air meter will not fall out of its place in the fender.
This is optional, but for cleanliness, remove the plate of steel from the top of the Air meter and the rubber bumpers that hold it in place.
Remove the 90-degree hose attached to the front of the air meter.
Attach the filter to the front of the air meter.
Go for a test drive. You should definitley feel a noticeable difference!
Submitted by Jeff Smith
Want some info on SVO Fuel Injection? Replacements?
Please visit the Texas SVOOA site - Injector Info by Mike Fleming.
The plastic hats are only there to protect the pintle ends and don't play much part in the spray pattern on the stock injectors. A cracked one just looks bad.
The O-rings are more critical - if the one on the top leaks, you have a fuel leak and a serious fire hazard. If the lower ones leak, then you have an air leak that could affect idle and power.
Submitted by Mike Fleming
What is the difference between the 85 motor and the 85.5/86 motor?
Same basic motor(Pistons, rods, etc...) 85.5-86 had a larger cam (A231), square bore intake (I don't know which really flowed better??), a water-cooled turbo with 1 psi more boost, revised computer calibration(PE) with 35-lb/hr injectors, In tank 88 lph fuel pump (5.0 style, more upgradeable but flows less than 84-85 SVO pumps), single to dual exhaust, 3.73 gears, and revised transmission ratios. This added up to the 30 extra HP. I did not mention the exhaust manifold differences as the debate is still out on whether 86 SVO's got the E-3 manifold or the E-6 manifold.
Submitted by Jeff Smith
Does anyone know the front / rear weight distribution of the SVO?
According to Car & Driver (10-83 issue) it's 56.6/43.4%
For more fabulous facts on the SVO, please visit the SVO Facts page!
Submitted by yours truly
Looking for skidpad data on the SVO?
October 83 Car and Driver
1/4-mi 15.5@90mph
Lateral Gs - 0.77g (on a 282ft skidpad)
October 83 Road & Track
1/4-mi 15.8@89mph
Lat Gs - 0.825
July 85 Motor Trend (1985.5 tested)
1/4-mi [email protected]
Lat Gs - 0.85g
How does one adjust the Koni front struts?
This is best explained by showing you the Koni adjustment pamphlet that came with the car - click here to view it! [link coming soon]
How does one adjust the Koni rear struts?
A less common question... It turns out, if you look carefully enough, a rotation arrow is marked on the shock housing. You'll need to raise the car and jack up the rear axle to disconnect the bottom shock bolt. Pull the shock out of the mounting bracket and, while compressing the shock fully, turn the shock in the direction of the aforementioned arrow to stiffen the shock, counter-clockwise for softer settings. (A trick to keep the shock compressed is to use a jack).
Courtesy Richard Nichols
The KONIs in my Mustang SVO have failed. What brands of replacement shocks and struts do you recommend, or should I get new KONIs? I have also heard there is a warranty on KONIs, and I can get my KONIs rebuilt -- is this true?
Please view the answer found at the top of the mustangsvo.org's Tech page - a very good explanation of each! Click here to go there directly
Courtesy www.mustangsvo.org
Is a little oil out the top of my struts normal?
A little oil out of the top of the Koni struts is perfectly normal - it occurs during break-in only. If you find gobs of oil on the struts, you have a problem.
What are the alignment specifications for the SVO?
The '86 Ford Shop Manuals list the alignment specs of all Mustangs, including the SVO, as:
caster (which is not adjustable): nom. +1.0, min. +1/4, max. +1-3/4
camber: nom. 0, min. -3/4, max. +3/4
toe: nom. +.199"(+.375 deg), min. +.063(+.125 deg), max. .313(+.625 deg).
* These are 1986 specs, earlier models should verify with the shop manuals for the appropriate year